Studio Improvement Project: Slab Roller Table
I’m primarily a hand builder, and most of my pieces are created from slabs that have to be rolled out. I have access to a large slab roller during my weekly pottery studio sessions, but when I work in my home studio, I’ve been using a big rolling pin and wooden rolling guides to create level slabs. I’ve wanted to buy a professional grade slab roller for some time, but they are expensive — and very large. I share my home studio space with the washer and dryer and my home office, and there really isn’t a lot of room for a full-size slab roller.
Another consideration is that my right knee has no cartilage and I can’t walk or stand for very long. My Bailey Pro X Pottery Wheel has a worksurface on the opposite end of the turntable, and I’ve got a 2-ft x 2-ft birch board clamped onto that. I added locking casters to the legs so I can roll it around, and I sit on a rolling stool. When I want to use the wheel, I roll over to the turntable side, and when I want to hand build, I roll over to the birch board side. The casters let me position my workstation where I need it to be, and make cleaning up my clay messes very easy.

When I first starting working in my home studio, I grabbed a small metal rolling tool cart from the garage to hold my supplies and tools while I was working. I could roll it around to where I needed it, and everything was easy to reach from a sitting position. The cart is small enough to fit well in my space but perfectly suited for my pottery uses. Stainless steel is easy to clean and very sturdy, and the locking casters keep it absolutely still when I need it.
I finally bit the bullet in June and ordered the Nidec Shimpo Mini Slab Roller, which was the perfect size to fit on my little tool cart, and it has lots of good reviews. But when I tried it out on top of my cart, I quickly realized that this wasn’t going to be an out-of-the-box solution. For starters, this model uses a crank handle that you rotate, and the slab board slides forward and back to flatten chunks of clay into a uniform slab. At 19-inches high, my tool cart was actually a little too low to comfortably crank the handle without stooping over.
In addition, the slab roller has telescoping “stabilizer bars” for legs to support the rolling board. Because the metal legs were sitting directly on smooth, slick sheet metal, the motion of the turning crank caused them to constantly slide back into the roller base, and then the slab board would fall off the legs and the slab would get gouged by the metal roller. Finally, the cranking motion also made the slab roller base twist and slide around like crazy whenever I tried to use it.
I noticed that there are two holes in the base of the slab roller that could be used to attach the unit to a work surface, but my cart is powder-coated stainless steel and I didn’t want to drill holes into that. But if I could get some custom-sized boards and posts, I could add a wooden shelf to my tool cart, raising the height of the work surface — and I could bolt the slab roller onto the top surface. That would solve all the problems.
I already had clamps, wood glue, and a power drill with lots of bits, but I don’t have a power saw — nor do I need to own one because this would be the only time I’d use it. To build my cart extension, I needed two worksurfaces that measured 18-inches wide by 26.75-inches long; one to attach to the top of the metal cart, and the other would be attached to that with four corner posts. I could then drill holes into that top worksurface and bolt in the slab roller.
I searched online to see if I could find some plywood boards that were sized to fit my cart and discovered that Home Depot does custom-cutting for lumber purchases. The first ten cuts are free, and then it’s 50¢ a cut after that. The guys at Home Depot were really helpful and picked out some clearance lumber to cut down to size. Since the cart is 18-inches wide, they grabbed two 6-inch wide boards and two 3-inch boards and cut them into four pieces each. For the posts, they cut a 2×4 into 8-inch sections. Between the lumber and the cutting fee, it was under $10 for my project.
The materials were cheap, but it was going to take most of my weekend to put it all together. Now that it’s done, I am so proud of myself! It’s definitely a little rustic looking, but it’s very sturdy and puts the slab roller at the perfect height for rolling out slabs while sitting on my stool. Plus, I got an additional storage shelf, which is coming in very handy (extra storage space always does!). It is amazingly easy to roll out slabs now, and I am having a blast!
If you want to see how I built my new slab roller table by myself, take a look at the photo gallery below.
Because I need to carefully position the bottom worksurface to use existing bolt holes in the sheet metal cart top, I decided to put the two 6-inch wide boards on the outside to ensure I would get a good fit with all the bolts. Home Depot did a really nice job cutting these boards to size!
I laid out my clamps and started applying the glue to boards so I could eventually clamp them altogether.
I made sure to apply a nice, thick layer of glue to ensure full coverage. As soon as I started ratcheting in the clamps, the glue started beading up along each seam, which is what you want. Now the beads just need to be wiped back.
I turned the clamps on their sides so I could wipe off the excess glue on both sides of each tabletop surface.
The glue needs to dry for 30 minutes before you can remove the clamps. I love having a timer on my watch!
As you can see, the cheap-o lumber I purchased is slightly warped, but I am not making fine furniture. These boards are just close enough that with a little sanding, I will have two usable workbench surfaces.
I have now got the second worksurface in the clamps, and will take them out in 30 minutes. The glue instructions say to wait 24-hours before moving to the next step, which is sanding.
The next day, I sanded the boards and lined them up on the tool cart to look at how the bolts were arranged. I wanted to use the original bolts, nuts, and washers to attach the new wooden bottom shelf on top of the metal cart base. I would need to measure carefully and countersink the drill holes so the nut caps would be level with the shelf surface.
I removed the metal top from the cart so I could use it as a template on the new wood shelves for drilling holes for the nuts.
First set of counter sinks for the bolts is done. I love how the countersink drill bit leaves an indentation in the center, so you'll know where to drill down when it's time to add the center hole for the bolt.
I checked the depth of the each countersink with a bolt to ensure it was flush with top of the board. I also checked to make sure the socket wrench head has enough clearance for me to work with later.
I was absolutely tickled to see that all the holes I drilled into the bottom shelf actually lined up with the metal cart top! I put a screwdriver into each hole to confirm that all four holes lined up before I started adding the nuts and bolts.
The next step was to screw the corner posts in place. These are all pretty close, but I wanted to make sure the tabletop was level so I lined up all my 8-inch blocks and picked the four that were the closest in size for the corner posts.
I've already marked where the screws for the corner posts need to go on the top of the shelf. Now I just need to pre-drill holes all the way through, since I need to attach the screws from the bottom.
Selecting screws to attach the posts to both the bottom and the top table surfaces.
I had to attach the four posts to each corner from the bottom before I could attach the bottom shelf to the top of the metal cart with the nuts and bolts.
I decided to also countersink the holes that would join the worksurface to the corner posts so that the screw tops wouldn't scratch the powder coating on the tool cart.
I've finally got all four corner posts screwed in place. Now it's time to flip this around and use the socket wrench to bolt it to the metal tool cart.
I've flipped the worksurface and rechecked that the bolt holes are still lined up. It's socket wrench time!
I wisely put all of the bolts and nuts into a jar so I would have everything I needed to quickly attach the worksurface to the cart base.
The bottom worksurface is fully bolted in. All eight bolts fit in perfectly. I am holding my breath, because these sorts of projects usually don't progress this seamlessly for me. Fingers crossed!
I decided to countersink the corner post screws, and I'll probably get some wood caps or wood putty to cover the holes at some point. But for now, the new cart is assembled, and its time to screw in my slab roller. It's taken most of the day because I've been trying to be very methodical, but I can't believe I actually did this!
I attached the slab roller base to the to top surface with heavy-duty screws and everything is in place and ready to use. The whole thing is really solid! The metal legs sit snuggly on the worksurface and don't slide around anymore. In fact, the whole unit stays absolutely still, even when I rolled the board back and forth to check it out. Like I said, it's a little rustic, and far from what someone with more carpentry experience would turn out, but this is fully functional and I'm ready to put it to work.
